| Fiber Composition |
Confirm whether the fabric is 100% silk or a silk blend. Identify the silk type, such as mulberry, tussar, eri, or muga silk. |
Request a fiber-composition test report and compare it with the product specification, labeling, and purchase contract. Microscopic examination can support identification but should not replace laboratory analysis. |
The tested composition should match the declared composition and the agreed tolerance. Any added polyester, viscose, nylon, or elastane should be clearly disclosed. |
No unexplained difference in sheen, hand feel, or burn behavior between the approved sample and bulk fabric. |
| Fabric Weight and Momme |
Verify the finished fabric weight, width, and momme value. Momme is based on the weight of a 100-yard length of fabric that is 45 inches wide. |
Measure mass per unit area using a calibrated balance and cutting template. Approximately 1 momme equals 4.34 g/m². |
The measured value should remain within the contract tolerance, commonly around ±5% when no stricter requirement is specified. |
Sample and production rolls have comparable drape, opacity, thickness, and weight. |
| Yarn and Weave Structure |
Check yarn type, filament or spun construction, yarn count, thread density, weave, and fabric width. |
Review a technical specification sheet and inspect warp and weft density under magnification. Compare the construction with the approved laboratory-dip sample. |
No visible missing ends, slubs, broken filaments, reed marks, or significant variation in thread density. |
The sample should maintain an even surface, stable width, and consistent drape after handling. |
| Color Accuracy |
Verify shade, color tolerance, selvage appearance, and lot-to-lot consistency. |
Use a signed color standard and assess under controlled lighting. Instrumental color measurement can be recorded using a CIELAB difference value. |
Set the acceptable color tolerance before production; a common commercial target is ΔE00 ≤ 1.0–1.5 for closely controlled shades, subject to buyer agreement. |
The sample remains visually consistent under daylight and indoor lighting, with no obvious streaks or side-to-side shade variation. |
| Colorfastness |
Evaluate resistance to washing, rubbing, perspiration, and light according to the fabric’s intended use. |
Request independent test results using relevant methods such as ISO 105-C06 for washing, ISO 105-X12 for rubbing, ISO 105-E04 for perspiration, and ISO 105-B02 for artificial light. |
Set minimum ratings in advance. For many apparel applications, a rating of 4 or higher for dry rubbing and 3–4 or higher for wet rubbing is used as a commercial reference, depending on shade and end use. |
No unacceptable staining, bleeding, or visible shade change after the agreed care cycle. |
| Strength and Seam Performance |
Check tensile strength, tear resistance, seam slippage, and resistance to abrasion where relevant. |
Use textile laboratory testing such as ISO 13934-1 for tensile properties, ISO 13937 for tear strength, and an agreed seam-slippage method. |
Requirements should be based on product use. Lining, scarf, blouse, bedding, and upholstery fabrics require different minimum values. |
The sewn sample should not show seam opening, excessive yarn breakage, tearing, or distortion during normal handling. |
| Dimensional Stability |
Confirm shrinkage, growth, skew, bow, and width stability after the recommended care process. |
Mark the fabric before washing and test according to the agreed care instruction, using ISO 6330 for domestic washing procedures where applicable. |
A common apparel benchmark is shrinkage within ±3% after the specified care cycle, but the exact limit must be agreed for the product. |
The sample keeps its intended length, width, shape, and print or pattern alignment after care testing. |
| Surface Quality and Defects |
Inspect slubs, holes, stains, crease marks, weaving faults, oil marks, uneven dyeing, and excessive fuzz. |
Review the supplier’s inspection procedure, fabric grading system, defect-point rules, and roll inspection records. Conduct a pre-shipment inspection using an agreed lighting and viewing distance. |
Defect limits should be written into the purchase order. Critical defects should be zero; major and minor defect limits should be defined before bulk production. |
The approved sample and bulk rolls show consistent luster, smoothness, hand feel, and appearance without unacceptable visible defects. |
| Sample-to-Bulk Consistency |
Verify whether the production sample matches the approved sample in color, construction, finish, weight, width, and hand feel. |
Keep a signed approval sample and compare it with a randomly selected bulk-production sample from each lot. |
No material change should be accepted without written approval. Record lot number, production date, test results, and corrective actions. |
A washed and sewn trial piece performs like the approved sample and meets the agreed appearance and measurement tolerances. |
| Documentation and Traceability |
Confirm that the supplier can trace raw material, dye lot, production lot, inspection result, and shipment roll numbers. |
Request technical data sheets, test reports, care instructions, packing details, and a documented batch or roll-number system. |
Documents should be current, internally consistent, and linked to the actual shipment rather than a generic product description. |
Any quality issue can be traced to a specific lot and investigated with supporting records. |